How do you fix plastic anchors?

Concrete screws without dowel

For use in the home, a hole is drilled with a drill before inserting the dowel that will receive the screw. The diameter of the drill bit must be equal to that of the dowel. Use the numerical value indicated on the dowel. In general, only the length of the plug should be drilled, and to do so it is advisable to paint a mark on the drill bit. Finally, the dowel should be pushed to the front surface of the hole.

A special form of very secure fastening is the expansion plug (by screw pressure), which is fixed in concrete, brick, plaster, building elements, etc. They are mainly used for permanent fixing to the walls of a building of any kind of objects, by means of hooks.

For some uses, it may be necessary to use a chemical dowel (especially in hollow materials). The hole is first drilled with a drill bit. After a complete cleaning of all dust residue, with a vacuum cleaner (or pneumatic blower), a “sieve” is inserted into the hole and then the two-component putty supplied in a double syringe is injected into the sieve for proper mixing at the time of use. The threaded rod is inserted into the sieve, centering it. The mixture with which the space has been filled hardens within minutes.

Anchor plugs

European standards assign categories to seismic performance taking into account the seismic level and the importance of the building. The categories are (C1 and C2) and can be summarized in the following table. The assignment of categories C1 and C2 is the responsibility of each Member State of the European Union.

There are many types of Safety Anchorages, for a great diversity of fastenings in our industrial environment, it is our responsibility to make a correct selection and verification of them. It is essential to perform the testing calculations in each case and to read the manufacturer’s instructions for use in each case.

For a better understanding of the calculation process you can review the technical guide from which we have made this summary. Just click on this link Technical Guide of Fasteners, we hope you find it useful.

Liner anchor

Elements of a rail fastening system based on a saddle plate: 1) Lag bolts for fastening the ribbed plate to the sleeper 2) Elastomeric plate (pad) 3) Flexible washer 4) Rail fastening (clip) 5) Fastening clamp bolt (nut not shown) 6) Saddle plate

This is an element that has evolved enormously, since the first rails still made of wood were fastened to the wooden sleepers also made of wood, either by dowels driven through holes in the rail, or with nails. By the 18th century, cast iron rails had come into use and also had holes to allow them to be attached to a support.[1] Eighteenth century developments, such as the flanged rail and the fish-bellied rail, also had holes in the rail itself. When sleepers made from stone blocks were used, the spikes were driven into wooden plugs inserted into holes drilled in the stone blocks themselves. It is believed that the first saddle plate attached to the rail by means of bolts was introduced in 1797.[2] The first railroad was built in 1797.

Metal anchors for concrete

A: Hidden anchor point, made of stainless steel, it is a high resistance anchor ideal for installations where aesthetics is of great value (hotels, lobbies, emblematic buildings, etc.). Suitable for concrete surfaces. Breaking strength higher than 25 KN. Suitable for 1 user at a time.B: Concealed anchor point consisting of two parts: a four-ball screw and a female bushing. Fixing to concrete or material of equivalent density by chemical sealing. Widely used for places where the anchor point cannot be seen. Suitable for 1 user at a time.C: Special anchorage for wooden beams made of color painted steel with steel spikes nailed directly to the wooden beam. Breaking strength 22 kN. Suitable for 1 user at the same time.D: Special anchorage point for roofs, fixed directly to the wooden structure by means of nailed steel spikes, can be made of galvanized steel or stainless steel. Suitable for 1 user at a time.